If you’re an avid lover of reptiles, you probably want to have the best and healthiest terrarium you can for them. This means using safe materials, enriching structures, and providing a natural habitat. But what habitat is the most natural for a reptile? I present to you, a complete guide on setting up a bioactive live planted terrarium.
Choosing an Appropriate Tank
Size does matter here. Certain species will require more space than others, and selecting the right sized terrarium is important. Pick a tank that’s too small, and your reptile won’t have the space they need to live a happy and fulfilling life. Their growth can be stunted, and they can even develop life threatening illnesses. They could become aggresive, feeling the need to protect what little space they can claim as their own. Their tank will become dirty much faster than it would if you had an appropriately sized tank, leading to poor hygiene related health issues. In some extreme cases, a reptile may even refuse to eat.
A tank that’s too large isn’t normally an issue. The recommended tank size is the minimum recommended size, and a larger tank isn’t harmful to most species. Just keep in mind that many lizards and snakes are afraid and wary of open spaces, so you’ll need more plants and hardscape to fill the open areas. We’ll go into more detail about that later.
Drainage Layers
The drainage layer is the bottom layer of any terrarium. It prevents waterlogging, and therefore prevents rot, mold, and other issues that may risk the health of your pet. The most common form of drainage layer is rocks and pebbles, but be careful. You need to use gravel that is specifically designed for terrarium use, and wash it well before hand. Driveway gravel or rocks you find outside may host organisms and microorganisms that pose a threat to your reptiles health. Some companies have bags of drainage materials. Make sure to follow the instructions if that’s the route you choose to take.
Substrate
Substrate is the base layer for your bioactive terrarium, and is one of the most important parts. Just like with tank sizes, different reptiles do best with different substrates. The most common however is a mix of soil, sand, coconut husk fibers, and moss. This is a blend that holds moisture without staying wet. The ratio you use will depend on your pet. Desert dwellers will prefer a mix with more sand than soil, while those that make forests their home will prefer more soil. Make sure that the ratio you choose is capable of supporting plant life.
Adding leaf litter on top of the substrate allows places for your pet to hide, as well as providing vital nutrients for the plants you choose to add later. It also provides food for the detritivores you’ll be adding. These are small animals that break down organic matter into useable nutrients for your plants. The most commonly used ones in terrariums are springtails and isopods (commonly called pill bugs), but worms, millipedes, and centipedes can all be used as well. As with the drainage layer, only use detritivores provided for use in terrariums.
Hardscape
Finally we get into some of the fun design aspects of a terrarium. Rocks, wood, and other decorations, like a hideaway for your pet, are used to build a large structure within the terrarium. Most are built with climbing in mind, but this part is totally up to you. Most terrariums need some form of hardscape. A hideaway at minimum, although it’s typically recommended that you have two hideaways for your pet. One in the warm side of your terrarium and one in the cold side. Branches like manzanita wood provide lots of climbing space for your reptile. Rocks provide places for your pet to bask on. Just be sure to avoid branches and rocks with sharp edges, to prevent your lizard or snake from accidentally getting injured on them.
Softscape
Softscape refers to the live plants and mosses you add to your terrarium. Not every plant can be used however. Bracken fern is toxic to reptiles, and would make them very, very sick. For your convenience, we are providing a list of reptile friendly plants to add to your terrarium.
Abelia (Abelia grandiflora)
African Violet (Saintpaulia)
Aloe vera (Aloe Vera)
Amazon Sword (Echinodorus grisebachii)
Boston Fern (Nephrolepis exaltata)
Bromeliads (Cryptanthus & Bilbergia)
Echeveria (Echeveria)
Emerald Ripple (Peperomia caperata)
Golden Pothos (Epipremnum aureum)
Heartleaf Philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum)
Hens And Chicks (Sempervivum tectorum)
Inchplant (Tradescantia zebrina)
Jewel Orchid (Ludisia)
Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis)
Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana)
Ponytail Palm (Beaucarnea recurvata)
Prickly Pear Cactus (Opuntia)
Red Sorrel (Rumex acetosella)
Sky Plant (Tillandsia Ionantha)
Snake Plant (Dracaena trifasciata)
Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum)
Staghorn Fern (Platycerium)
String of Pearls (Senecio rowleyanus)
Urn Plant (Aechmea fasciata)
Wax Plant (Hoya carnosa)
Weeping Fig (Ficus benjamina)
All these plants are safe for use in your terrarium, but we recommend doing some more research on them. Some are only safe if they aren’t ingested. If your reptile has a habit of snacking on any plants you add, you might want to avoid adding them.
The way you arrange the plants is once again artistic preference. When placing them, be mindful of any open areas as these may cause undue stress for your pet. Also be sure to plant only the ones that thrive within the substrate you’ve chosen. Remove any large dying leaves as you see them, since they may be too much for your detritivores to break down.
Heating and Humidity
The level of heat and humidity is once again determined by the kind of reptile you have. Even the type of heat source will depend on what pet you have, as some may require a heat mat while others require a ceramic heater. Make sure to build your terrarium in a way that you have one warm side and one cool side. Since reptiles are cold blooded, they regulate their own temperature by traveling between hot and cool areas. This is also why it’s important to offer two hides, one in each area. To maintain the humidity level your reptile needs, use a hygrometer. Use a modern digital hygrometer, as they’re the most accurate. Mist your terrarium as needed to maintain humidity levels.
Lighting
You’ll need a proper light set up to keep your plants healthy, as well as providing light and potentially a heat source for your reptile. Visible light, UVA, UVB, and infrared light may be required for your pet. Using lighting for your plants will help them grow and stay healthy. This allows them to use the nutrients that were broken down by the detritivores, and allows the detritivores to keep breaking down any organic material. The lighting will also provide your pet with the right light that they need to live a happy, healthy, and fulfilling life.
Maintenance
Congratulations! You’ve set up a bioactive live planted terrarium. You can now add your pet, and watch them explore their new home. Some basic maintenance will be required. Like we mentioned previously, you will need to remove any large dead leaves from your plants, and mist your terrarium regularly to maintain the correct humidity. You might also want to feed your pet regularly. Make sure you feed them the correct food for their species, size, and as often as recommended. Other than that, the bioactive terrarium should do most of the work for you. Spot clean as needed to prevent the bioload from becoming to much, but that’s all it should take if you did it correctly. Enjoy your new tank set up and your pet’s happiness.
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